Telluride: part 3

Since my last post focused mainly on the Bluegrass festival, I’ll focus this post on non- festival related things.

I had dinner with my friend Kate last week and she asked me what my favorite thing about Colorado. “That’s easy,” I replied, “the stars!”

On our first night in Telluride we were walking back to the gondola and when we got to a particularly dark stretch of road, free of street lights, Chris told me to look up. I gasped. I have never in my life seen that many stars. That is by far what I’ll miss the most. I wish I could see those stars every night of my life and I made sure to look up and appreciate them every night.

Our first two full days in Telluride were mostly spent going in and out of the festival, but we mixed it up on our last two days.

On Saturday we relaxed and lounged around the condo for a bit before heading out for a hike. My amazing friends Becky and Ben were back home in DC participating in the Walk of Hope in memory of their daughter Cecelia Grace and many of us around the US and Canada took our own walks in solidarity.

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#walkforcece

#walkforcece

pano1

The scenery was absolutely stunning and it was a great way to show Becky and Ben our support and to honor Cecilia Grace. After our hike we cleaned ourselves up and headed back to the festival.

When we got in to town Chris decided to stop at Baked in Telluride for a doughnut. As we waited to pay we noticed this sign at the register and had quite a laugh. I’m pretty sure there are like 4 Jewish people in all of Telluride, including Ralph Lauren who has a house there, but us New Jersey Jews really get around, huh?

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On Sunday there was no one we particularly wanted to see at the Bluegrass festival until the “house band,” who would close the show so we planned a day of activities. We started the day out with another hike. This one brought us 10,000 miles up to Bear Creek Falls. The last 100 feet of this hike is a bit more challenging as the path up to the falls becomes narrow and you have to hop over some streams and climb over some fallen tree branches to get there, but it was totally worth it for these views.

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Unfortunately, what goes up must come down. As a New Yorker who walks all the time, the distance of this hike, about 5 miles round trip, didn’t intimidate me at all. And walking uphill, well you’re excreting yourself more than on a typical New York City sidewalk, but I can handle that. Downhill though, that’s another story. I am a huge klutz and not known for my grace, elegance or balance. I was pretty much terrified on those first 100 feet back down from the falls, but I stayed calm while Chris helped guide me and I managed to climb down without inflicting serious or even minor injury on myself. I’ve been known to inflict injuries on myself while walking from the bedroom to the bathroom so this was quite and accomplishment for me.

After our hike we cleaned up and headed in to Telluride to watch the US vs. Portugal World Cup match. (Please note that I have not mentioned World Cup at all in my previous posts because I’m so depressed about how it all turned out. I really thought we’d make it to the quarter finals this time. Sigh…)

We met Dan and a bunch of other friends who’d left the festival to watch the game at a local “pizza” place. The place was so packed that I wondered if anyone at all was still at the festival! Our large group gathered around a very small table, ordered drinks and settled in to cheer on Team USA. At this point Chris and I were starving and ready for some food so we ordered the boneless spicy bbq wings which were delicious.

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Chris and I actually both prefer bone-in wings, but there were so may of us gathered around this small table that Chris and I had to hold the basket in our laps and so we went for the easier option. The things we do for our love of food and soccer!

After the bittersweet game we headed back to the gondola to get back to our condo. For days we’d been seeing a cart in front of the gondola station advertising, “Teddy’s Doughnuts,” and Chris decided it was time to try some. As he was placing his order a thought occurred to me and I asked the woman frying the doughnuts if she was the owner. She answered that she was so I told her about my allergies and she assured me that her doughnuts were safe for me.

We ordered the cinnamon sugar doughnuts which she served us hot right out of the fryer. They were so good! The doughnuts weren’t very sweet at all and they were so light that they melted in our mouths. I’m also a huge fan of cinnamon sugar and loved licking it off my fingers like a little kid

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After freshening up at the condo we headed back to the festival to watch the house band, which featured; Sam Bush, Bela Fleck, Del McCoury, Alison Krauss and others, close out the show. The band was great! We danced and soaked up the last of all the great live music before heading back to our condo for our final night sleeping in the mountains.

The next morning we were up and out bright and early for our 6 hour drive back to the Denver airport to catch our flight home.

This was a truly magical trip and I miss Colorado already. I visited Alaska in 2006 and that is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been, but Telluride is a very close second and I feel blessed to have been able to spend time there.

Where is the most beautiful place you’ve ever been?

Telluride: Part 2

I decided to make the focus of this post the festival itself and focus the next post on non-festival related things.

On our first full day in Telluride, we made ourselves a quick breakfast at our condo and then hopped on the gondola to take us down the mountain and in to town to the Telluride Bluegrass Festival.

The gondola was an interesting experience. Mostly I didn’t find it too scary during the day, though I was not a big fan of that stomach dropping feeling you got when it first started heading down the mountain. The gondola at night, now that was a different story. You are in the mountains! At night! It’s pitch black! You are hanging from a cord above a mountain in a glass bubble and you can’t see the hand in front of your face. Need I say more?

During the day however, you got to take in some beautiful scenery from the gondola and you got to meet some interesting people like this guy:

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The dog’s name was Rudy and he was the friendliest, cuddliest little guy ever. In what may have been the cutest event I have ever witnessed, Rudy climbed up on the bench next to Chris and put his little head on Chris’s lap. Chris started petting him and the little boy who was with Rudy looked at Chris very seriously and said, “I think he likes you.” I’m pretty sure that’s the very definition of totes adorbs. Good thing Chris and I are both dog lovers.

My first glimpse at Telluride during the day did not disappoint. As I said earlier, it’s a great little town which is surrounded by these views.

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Even the festival itself had a stunning backdrop.

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Food was a little tough for me in this environment, but I packed some snacks from our condo and was also able to eat some “pizza” and grilled corn at the festival. Chris was super excited though, to get these chicken and basil dumplings which are apparently amazing and one of the highlights of the festival for many. They contain lots of stuff that I’m allergic to so they were a no no for me, but I was glad to see Chris enjoy them.

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For me the highlight of the festival was meeting The Lone Bellow!! They are one of my favorite bands and I highly recommend checking them out. The members of the band all live in Brooklyn and the female in the group, Kanene Pipkin, and I actually have a friend in common. They were so nice and it was so fun to talk about our shared love of Brooklyn and our mutual friend.

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Days two, three and four of the festival was much the same; great music, extraordinary weather, not so great “pizza” , Chris alternating between dumplings and chicken tacos and sunsets that looked like this.

sunset

Chris kept worrying about me, as this festival definitely skews hippie and I’m decidedly un-hippie (for the record he’s pretty damn un-hippie too), but I love live music and generally I enjoy a festival atmosphere. My only issue with this festival is that because of the dry mountain climate and all the people dancing, there is dust everywhere. It gets in your eyes and nose and you need to scrub it off of yourself when you get back to where you’re staying. Still the pleasures of the music and the atmosphere far outweighed any of the annoyances.

Do you enjoy live music? Have you ever had the opportunity to meet one of your favorite artists?

Telluride: Part one

Telluride was the longest and best portion of our trip, but I think it’s going to have the shortest amount of blog time dedicated to it. This is a food blog and I have nothing much to tell you about any special food I ate on this portion of the trip so I guess I’ll try and turn this in to a travel blog for now and hope that my words and pictures can convey to you how absolutely amazing Telluride is, though I don’t think they can.

We woke up bright and early on Wednesday morning, grabbed breakfast at our hotel in Denver and headed over to pick up our rental car. Does the idea of two New Yorkers who don’t drive at all, driving 6 hours through the mountains scare you at all, because it sure scared us! It was ridiculously expensive to add me to the insurance too; so Chris, who hadn’t driven in 2 years, drove the entire 6 hours. Luckily, he did great. I swear I’m not saying that because I’m all googley-eyed in love, he really did great.

So we had a nice ride, snacks, music on the radio and more importantly, stunning scenery. Seriously, if you ever have the opportunity to drive through the mountains in Colorado, take it.

drive

We were eager to get up to Telluride, especially since we found out that one of our favorite bands, The Lone Bellow, would be playing a free show that night as part of the festival we were attending, so we didn’t plan to stop much. We made one stop at a supermarket to pick up some food since we’d be staying at a condo with a kitchen. Our only other stop was for a late lunch at Horsefly Brewing Company in Montrose, Co; about an hour and a half from Telluride. Though I understand that sometimes when you’re on a long car trip your best and only option may be a chain restaurant on the side of the highway, but if it can be managed I far prefer places like Horsefly; local and unique.

We both had the patty melt and fries and I had a beer while Chris had there homemade root beer since he was driving.

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We arrived at our condo in Mountain Village in the late afternoon and we were greeted by these views.

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We quickly freshened up and headed part way down the mountain via the gondola to check out the Lone Bellow show!

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After a great show we hopped on the gondola again and headed further down the mountain where I got my first glimpse of the actual town of Telluride. One of the many things that makes Telluride such a spectacular place is that it’s surrounded by unimaginable beauty and then the town itself is filled with all these lovely shops and restaurants so it’s the best of both worlds.

We met up with Dan and some other friends and Chris grabbed a quick bite before we headed back up to our condo where we got right in to bed for some much needed rest.

Do you often take long road trips? Do you enjoy driving?

Denver (and Boulder): Part 2

Picking up where I left off last week.

On Tuesday morning, our second day in Colorado, we decided to head to Boulder. Boulder is only about an hour’s bus ride from Denver. I’d been told by a number of people that Boulder was worth a visit and Chris, who’d been there before, concurred so off we went.

This is what greeted us on arrival.

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Not bad, huh?

Boulder immediately had a different feel to me than Denver did. First, it’s the home the University of Colorado so it’s got a bit of a college town feel. Second, it’s much smaller than Denver and felt more like a big town than a small city. We strolled the main drag and flitted in and out of all these adorable little shops before heading to the pedestrian mall to stroll some more.

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Finally we’d worked up an appetite and since we’re craft beer lovers, Chris wanted to take me to the Mountain Sun Brew Pub.

Mountain Sun operates under a very cool concept; every employee there does every job. So the person taking your order may have cooked the food yesterday and may be washing dishes tomorrow. I really like this idea as it gives everyone an appreciation for each job and an understanding of how the whole process works. We each had a super delicious beer and Chris ordered a burger, his theme of this trip, while I went with the blackened chicken quesadilla.

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The quesadilla was really fresh and tasty and they served it with plenty of guacamole and spicy green chilies, both of which are sure ways to my heart.

Fueled up on food and beer, we decided to take a walk/hike along the Boulder Creek Path. The reasons I refer to is as a walk/hike rather than a hike are twofold. First, parts of it are paved liked sidewalk while parts are dirt path. Second, I was wasn’t prepared for a hike and was wearing those super flat thong-type sandals. Though the terrain was pretty flat, my feet were killing me by the end. Still, I kept insisting we go just a bit further as the pain in my feet was worth it for the views.

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Finally, it was time to head back to Denver.

We were exhausted and hungry by the time we got back to Denver so after quickly freshening up at the hotel we headed out to dinner. We ended up at Lucky Pie, which Dan had recommended to us.

Now I must digress. You may have heard me talk about Pizza vs. “pizza” on this blog before so let me just give you a quick refresher. In New York and New Jersey we eat Pizza. In the majority of the rest of the country they eat some sort of cheese/bread/sauce combinations which they refer to as pizza, but which is actually “pizza.” Here’s something important to note though, while “pizza” is not Pizza, it is comprised of carbs and cheese so it’s very often delicious in it’s own right. Ok back to my previously scheduled posting….

We started out by splitting the braised lamb meatballs with fresh mozzarella.

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The meatballs were delicious and the texture was perfect. As Jersey kids, Chris and I are pretty particular about all Italian-American food and we both gave Lucky Pie’s marinara high marks.

For the main act we ordered the Napolitana pizza which featured spicy salami, chilies, roasted garlic and smoked mozzarella.

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As expected it was “pizza” and not Pizza, but man what delicious “pizza” it was! The spicy salami and chilies had just enough kick which was balanced perfectly with the rich, slightly smokey cheese and just a hint of sweetness from the roasted garlic. It was a meal we both very much enjoyed.

After dinner we took a quick stroll down Denver’s 16th street pedestrian mall. I didn’t see much of Denver so I don’t have much to go on, but the 16th street mall was my favorite part. I love how cities in Europe so often have pedestrian malls and I wish more major American cities had them. A big thumbs up to Denver for having a pedestrian mall.

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At this point we were walking zombies and were ready to call it a night especially as we planned to be up bright and early the next day for our 6 hour drive to Telluride.

Have you ever visited Boulder, Co? If so, what was your impression of it? Do you enjoy pedestrian friendly cities or do you prefer being in your car?

Denver: Part 1

A few months in to our relationship Chris invited me on his annual trip to Colorado and of course I said yes! Chris’s oldest friend, Dan (they’ve known each other since Kindergarten – totes adorbs, right?) moved to Denver after college and Chris has been out there to visit many times. Five years ago Chris started joining Dan and some other friends in attending the Telluride Bluegrass Festival.

Telluride is a 6 hour drive from Denver, but due to it’s high altitude it’s best to spend a couple of days at a midway point when you’re coming from sea level so Chris suggested we spend two days in Denver before heading even farther up to Telluride.

We had to be up at 5am to catch our 7am flight from Seattle to Denver so, as you can imagine, we were exhausted. When we arrived we headed straight for our hotel which luckily had a room ready for us. We cleaned ourselves up a bit and then headed out to walk around downtown a bit. After a very little bit of walking I was starving. At this point it was 2pm and all I’d eaten was a handful of craisins and a bag of potato chips.

Denver is a great foodie city and Chris very sweetly was trying to find a really good restaurant to take me too, but I was hangry as hell at that point and insisted we walk in to the first place we found. We ended up in the Blake Street Pub which actually ended up being really good. I ordered the portabella sandwich; pan-roasted potabellas mushrooms, red pepper and onions with avocado and tomato served on a brioche bun. I opted for a side of sweet potato fries which came with a honey barbecue sour cream dipping sauce. The sandwich, fries and dipping sauce were all really fresh and delicious and definitely hit the spot.

sandwich

Having transitioned from hangry to fappy, we were off again and headed to meet some of Chris’s friends at a bar in town. The bar was about 3.5 miles away, but we decided to walk because we’re New Yorkers and also because we were planning on making a very important pit stop.

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For months Chris had been telling me about Little Man Ice Cream shop in Denver and their signature flavor, Salted Oreo. I could not wait to try it and it did not disappoint. This ice cream is not for the faint of heart, it’s got quite a bit of salt so you really have to be a lover of the salty/sweet combo. Luckily Chris and I love salty/sweet things. The ice cream was rich creamy and the salt paired perfectly with the chunks of crushed up Oreos. Also, the server (scooper?) was totally cool about my food allergies; she assured me that the Salted Oreo had no nuts and used a clean scoop for me. I’m pretty much still dreaming about how good that ice cream was!

ice cream

After hanging out at the bar for awhile with Dan and his friends, we were ready dinner. Dan and another friend took us to The Kitchen. The weather was beautiful and we got a table outside which always makes food and drinks taste better. I ordered the pasta bolognese which was really tasty. I liked the vibe of the restaurant and especially loved their emphasis on fresh, seasonal food, but I was too tired to really appreciate it. This is definitely a place I’d like to go back to if I visit Denver again.

bolognese

After dinner we headed back to the hotel and got straight in to bed for a much needed good nights sleep.

Have you ever visited Denver? Did you enjoy the city?

Seattle part 3

Sunday was our last day in Seattle and I was excited to do the number one thing on my list besides Pike Place market; visit the Chihuly Garden and Glass.

Dale Chihuly is a famous glass artist whose works are displayed around the world. I’ve seen his pieces in various places before and went to a fantastic exhibition of his work at the RISD Museum in Providence several years ago. Seattle is Chihuly’s hometown and so at the base of Seattle’s most famous landmark, the Spaceneedle, sits the Chihuly Garden and Glass. It’s an interior museum and exhibition hall of Chihuly’s works with a beautiful garden filled with his glass art outside. It definitely live up to my expectations.

Indoor sculpture

Indoor sculpture

Glass artwork ceiling

Glass artwork ceiling

Reflection from glass art ceiling

Reflection from glass art ceiling

Gardens

Gardens

Since the Chihuly Garden and Glass was at the base of the Spaceneedle we bought a combo ticket that would also get us to the top of the Spaceneedle because why not? I highly recommend the Chihuly Glass and Gardens as you not only get to appreciate these beautiful glass pieces, you also learn about the process which is fascinating. I would not however, recommend the Spaceneedle. It was ok, but not worth the money. Also, neither Chris or I are particularly prone to motion sickness, but we both got really dizzy up there.

After the Gardens and Spaceneedle we were ready for a snack. We wanted to keep it light since we’d ate so poorly the day before and we planned on dinner at a gastropub that night. We headed back to Emmett Watson’s Oyster Bar in Pike Place and kept it simple. I ordered 6 oysters and 6 peal and eat shrimp while Chris ordered the smoked salmon Havarti and bread plate.  I still contend that East Coast oysters are more flavorful than West Coast oysters, but the shrimp were really delicious and it was a great snack.

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With our bellies full, we stopped by Rachel’s Ginger Beer bar because I loved it so much and wanted another ginger concoction before I left. This time I had the El Diablo; ginger beer with cassis and tequila. Chris opted for the Montana Mule, a Moscow Mule made with whiskey instead of vodka. Both were delicious! I really hope Rachel’s Ginger Beer expands to New York.

Now that we were refreshed and slightly buzzed so we headed off to Pioneer Square, a neighborhood which I’d read about before visiting Seattle. The neighborhood was really cute, but we were disappointed that most of the stores were closed and the street were pretty empty. As New Yorkers, it’s hard for us to imagine store being closed on Sundays or, well, ever. Luckily we were still able to take the Pioneer Square Underground Tour.

Here’s the extremely abridged version of the tour, which we enjoyed. Pioneer Square was the first neighborhood where Seattle’s founder’s settled. In 1889 there was a fire that decimated the neighborhood. A new neighborhood was then built on top of the old one.

After another nice walk and discovering that a whole lot of Seattle shuts down on Sunday we headed to Quinn’s Pub for dinner. Funny enough my parents are planning a trip to Seattle next month. In my mom’s research on Seattle she stumbled on a mention of Quinn’s and thought it sounded like a place that Chris and I would love and she was right. Quinn’s is a cool gastropub with great food and fantastic craft beers.

We started out by splitting the soft pretzel with Welsh rarebit. The pretzel actually had more of the flavor and texture of a baguette, but it was still super delish because really, who doesn’t love a baguette. The Welsh rarebit dipping sauce was amazing. After we finished the pretzel I may have dipped my fork straight in to the sauce and licked it off a couple of times.

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For our main courses Chris ordered the burger and I went with the fish and chips. Both were delicious. Chris’s burger was perfectly cooked, juicy and packed with flavor. My fish and chips were wonderfully season, the fish was fresh and the coating was light and crisp and not at all greasy. The fries were great too.

burger fishchips

For dessert we split the ginger and jalapeno sorbet which I forgot to take a picture of. It was really tasty and super refreshing though it  could’ve used a bit more kick from the jalapeno.

Our flight to Denver was at 7am the next morning so after dinner we grabbed our bags from the hotel where we had been staying, checked in to an airport hotel for the night and went to bed.

Chris and I both agreed that Seattle was a cool city with a great vibe, but our time there was so short and we were both exhausted the whole time; he from his flight delays and then not adjusting to the time difference and me from just coming off of a work conference. Since we liked the city so much though, we’re already thinking about a Pacific Northwest vacation in the future where we’d hit up Portland, Seattle and Vancouver. I can’t wait!

Have you ever been to Portland or Vancouver? Did you enjoy those cities?

Seattle part 2

So it turns out that when you’re on a fabulous vacation with someone you love, you don’t have a lot of time to blog. Sorry for the delay.

When we last left off, Chris had just arrived at 1am PST after dealing with  flight delays. As you might imagine we rolled right in to bed, but had a hard time rolling out the next morning. I was tired and Chris was exhausted so we tried to take it as easy as one possibly can while playing tourist.

The day started with breakfast at our hotel where we both ordered the house specialty; a cobb omelet. It wasn’t the best omelet I’ve ever had, but the combination of ingredients, reminiscent of a cobb salad, was pretty brilliant and I’ll definitely be making this at home some day.

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After that very filling breakfast we headed out and decided to take a boat tour of the harbor. The weather was pretty yucky and overcast, even by Seattle standards, but we were so tired and so full that the bat tour was a good option as we could sit and relax for awhile.

When we got off the boat, we headed to the Olympic Sculpture Park which is an outdoor extension of the Seattle Art Museum. We both really enjoyed this. You get to check out some great art and take in more views of the water and it’s totally free.

PicMonkey Collage

Next we headed back to Pike Place Market, where I finally got to see some fish throwing, though I wasn’t able to get a good picture of it. I also wish I’d taken pictures of the gorgeous flowers, fresh fruit and seafood in the market. Everything was so beautiful.

Our friend Brian was staying in Seattle until Sunday morning so we agreed to meet in the late afternoon on Saturday for some drinks. We went to a very cool pub I’d heard about called Radiator. We sipped local beers talked and most of all laughed and laughed. We also ordered some tater tots with gravy to snack on. Not exactly the healthiest snack, but we hadn’t eaten since breakfast and it was vacation so whatevs.

tots

After much laughter and probably too many beers, Chris and I said goodbye to Brian and headed back to our hotel to relax before dinner. I’d made a reservation at Loulay, a restaurant that came highly recommended. I was excited too because I recognized the chef/owner, Thierry Rautureau, from his stint as a guest judge on Top Chef. On the map it had looked like the restaurant was right around the corner from our hotel, but guess what… the restaurant turned out to be IN our hotel! Double score!

We had an 8pm reservation, but when we arrived we were told that they were running behind. While this is frustrating when you’ve made a reservation, the restaurant made it right by giving us each a complimentary glass of champagne.

Once we were seated and got our menu I was overwhelmed as everything looked amazing. Our waitress helped us with the menu choices and we ended up splitting crab beignets with harissa aioli and the seared polenta with wild mushrooms and cheese crisp to start. Both were heaven. The beignets were crispy on the outside without being greasy and the inside was soft and smooth and filled with delicious sweet crab meat. The polenta was perfectly cooked with a a crisp outer layer and silky interior and the earthy mushrooms complimented it perfectly.

crab beignets

crab beignets

seared polenta

seared polenta

For our main courses Chris chose the Halibut with potatoes and caramelized fennel while I chose the braised lamb leg with harissa couscous and castlevetrano olives. Chris’s fish was perfectly cooked and delicious, but we agreed that my lamb was the star. It was richly flavored and melted in your mouth. The harissa couscous provided the perfect kick of spice and the tanginess of the olives cut through the bold flavors of the dish.

Halibut

Halibut

Lamb

Lamb

It is a well known rule that one must indulge in dessert while on vacation and Chris and I are nothing if not rule followers. Now, if you’ve read this blog at all or you know me in real life or you’ve spoken to me for more than 10 seconds you know this; strawberries are my absolute favorite food. So when the waitress reported that they had a special dessert that night of strawberry sorbet with macerated strawberries, basil and strawberry water I pretty much drowned everything else out. It was like a strawberry explosion which is pretty much my personal Nirvana and I’m still dreaming about it.

Strawberry perfection

Strawberry perfection

The way that I feel about strawberries is pretty much how Chris feels about chocolate so of course he opted for one of the chef’s specialties; hot chocolate, based on a recipe of the chef’s grandparents back in France, served with toasted brioche and salted butter. Chris loved it. I had a sip and thought it was delicious too. Chris also reported that spreading the salted butter on the toasted brioche and then dipping it in the hot chocolate sent it over the top.

hot chocolate

hot chocolate

After dinner we were exhausted and went up to our hotel room to get some much needed sleep and re-energize before our final day in Seattle.

What’s your favorite food? When’s the last time that you were able to indulge in it?